From Vintage Linens to One-of-a-Kind Paganoonoo Carol Jacket

There’s a special kind of magic that happens when you give old textiles new life. Recently, I finished a Paganoonoo Carol Jacket that began as two mid-century cotton tablecloths and a set of embroidered dish towels.

Now there is a joyful, story-filled jacket that carries both history and personal style!

The Finished Jacket

Here’s the jacket in its final form. I love it! 

The model is Carol Worthington Levy, for whom the jacket is named. She is the graphic designer and dear friend who helped me translate the Carol design into a PDF pattern format that can be printed at home or sent to a copy shop. It is my first Paganoonoo Pattern (the rest are tutorials). 

Although I didn’t make the garment specifically for Carol, it fits her perfectly and she looks beautiful in it. I'm going to gift it to her — how could I not?  They are meant for each other.

Choosing the Materials

Speaking of gifting, lucky me, Candy Olson gave me boxes of vintage textiles some years ago that included these tablecloths. I've been thinking about what to do with them.  I noticed that Patternreview.com was having an upcycle sewing contest—perfect!

I picked out these two mid-century cotton tablecloths for the body and front band, and a set of vintage embroidered dish towels for the sleeves. To tie in the sleeves, I appliquéd motifs cut from the linens, plus some swallows I had printed on Spoonflower (a fabric printing service).

Double Check your Vintage Materials

Vintage linens often come with quirks — frayed edges, stains, holes, fading, fraying, worn spots, etc.

Turns out for one of these tablecloths the print wasn’t centered, which meant the white edges varied in width — I did not notice this at first. To prepare for cutting, I did what I usually do: align all the edges, smooth out any bumps and folds.

Luckily, I wanted to make sure that the corners and edges of the colored print matched up.  I put a pin in the corner of the colored corner and pushed through to the second layer and looked to see if it matched the corner on the other side — No! It turned out that the white border was ½" off. 

I needed the printed centers to match. I explored with the pin until I had both corners matched up. I realized I would need to pin down the whole colored edges to exactly match before I could cut a pair of front panels. It took extra time and careful positioning, but those kinds of challenges are part of the fun.

There were also small holes in the tablecloths and a frayed edge on one of the dish towels. I fixed this with patched mending.

Cutting & Planning the Layout

The Carol Jacket pattern is loose-fitting, unlined, and works beautifully to highlight the complex patterns on a vintage tablecloth (it can be made with old jeans, dress shirts, or vintage cutter quilts too). To maximize the tablecloth designs, I made a few changes:

Almost added a beetle,
but did not.

• Split the back piece into two pieces with a center seam so I could include as much of the colored sections as possible and cut out as much of the white center as possible.  I wanted each side to be symmetrical.
  
  

• Added patching to the top of the sleeves (harvested from the tablecloth) because the dishcloth was mostly plain.
  
  Added giant rick-rack to the cuff — purchased years ago and I've always wanted to use some! It seemed like a perfect mid-century accent.   

• Widened the front band to show off the beautiful geranium border print, applying it with an overlap & topstitch instead of the usual right-sides-together method.  Stitched on by hand the day of the contest deadline because I was on post-surgery bedrest!

• Added appliqué birds on the sleeves for extra detail and movement.
  
  

Construction

The pattern itself is easy to sew, with only the band intersection being slightly tricky. You make a clip in the back shoulder seam — to the stitching line to release the fabric, allowing the band to be applied continuously.

Problem-Solving with Creativity

Uneven prints, narrow borders, unexpected stains — these are all part of sewing with vintage linens. Instead of seeing them as problems, I accept and visibly mend them, or let them guide my design choices. In this case, splitting the back seam and widening the band turned limitations into highlights.

Using Vintage Textiles for Garment?
...OK or NOT?

In the sewing world, there’s an ongoing debate: Is it okay to cut into vintage textiles? Quilts, tablecloths, and hand-stitched linens often carry deep history, and some people believe they should remain intact, preserved as they are.

I respect that perspective — but I also believe textiles are meant to be lived with, worn, and enjoyed. Too often, these pieces sit folded away in drawers, unseen and unused. By reworking them into garments, we can bring their beauty back into daily life. This is especially true for damaged textiles — we can salvage what is usable.

Based on the increasing numbers of upcycles I see done with vintage textiles on Pinterest and Etsy, I think there are others who agree. I’ve also noticed the prices of vintage textiles on eBay and on Etsy are rising, but I don't see anyone using them as originally intended.

For me, upcycling is a way of honoring the original makers by giving their creations a new life. When I wear garments made with vintage linens, I feel like I’m carrying those stories with me, while also adding my own.

The Joy of Upcycling

Every time I finish an upcycled garment, I’m reminded why I do this work:

• To rescue textiles that deserve another chapter
• To honor the handwork and design of those who came before
• To create unique clothing that can’t be bought off the rack
• To use existing resources rather than purchasing recently manufactured goods (greener choices)
• For the sheer joy of creating!

This Carol Jacket isn’t just a garment — it’s a celebration of history, craft, and creative reuse.

About the PatternReview Upcycling Contest

I entered this jacket in the annual PatternReview Upcycling Contest, which challenges sewists to transform existing secondhand garments and textiles into something new. #prUpcycleRecycleReuse

It’s always inspiring to see how creative the community gets with upcycling — from shirts and jeans to curtains and quilts. If you’re curious, you can visit PatternReview’s contest gallery to check out all the entries (including mine).  Voting is open September 3-10, 2024. You must have been a PatternReview Member for more than 90 days in order to vote.  (You could vote for mine! 😁) 

You...

Have you ever tried sewing with vintage linens? 

What treasures have you transformed? 

Share your stories in the comments — I’d love to hear them!

Next? 

I’m guessing this project sparked ideas! 

Want to make your own? The Paganoonoo Carol Jacket PDF pattern is available as a digital download. 25% off through September 14, 2025.  

This casual, unlined jacket is inspired by the Japanese hanten style, with a wrap front that hangs closed without buttons or ties. Two upcycle-friendly versions are included: one made from dress shirts (using the original cuffs) and one from denim jeans (reusing hems).  It is easily adapted to vintage linens, quilts and a variey of textiles. 

Offered in tiled PDF for home printing or full-size for copy shop printing, it’s suited for advanced beginner or intermediate sewists.  

There are also other upcycle tutorials to explore: Visit Paganoonoo on Etsy or our website.

See a trunk show of Paganoonoo garments and find out more about our upcycling methods. Watch this Video.

Want even more inspiration? See my collection of upcycling pins on Pinterest — garments and accessories. 

Happy Upcycling!  Michelle Paganini

Matchy Matchy Sewing Club: Collage Gather Top - upcycled from patchworked dress shirts scraps

Hi, I'm Michelle Paganini, a committed upcycle sewist, owner and designer for Paganoonoo. Typically you will find me altering already made garments, like Paganoonoo designs. 

I was recently inspired to try an Indie pattern. A fellow upcyclist, Karen Sullivan, of Sullys Upcycled, made a version of this top that I fell in love with. The pattern is from the Matchy Matchy Sewing Club and the name is the Collage Gather Top.

 

                                    Karen Sullivan

I decided to give it a try. Here are my results. 

Michelle Paganini

Modifications I Made

I made some modifications from the pattern to accommodate my plus size (14/16 retail) pear-shaped figure:

• Widened back & front panels below bust to be slightly more A line to accommodate my pear shape.
  
  
• Increased width of side panels by 50% to accommodate my pear shape.
  
  
• Added decorative outside bias tape on the neckline and hem - wanted more contrast (for balance)

• Used bias tape on sleeves instead of pattern cuff to create harmony and balance with neckline and hem.
  
  
• Lengthened by several inches to accommodate my full bust and belly.
  
  
• Lowered front neckline slightly for comfort
  
  
• I did not like the light colored mid-back panel on its own. I added a contrasting red square.

Sewing Challenges I Encountered

I am used to doing only deconstruction/reconstruction upcycle sewing (Paganoonoo), and not traditional patterns. I made many, many mistakes, lol. 

• Applied folded bias tape with the fold on the seam, raw edges out. Had to rip and resew.
   
• Make neck bias tape strip too short by 2.5”. Had to patch.
  
  
• Lost a pattern piece.  Printed and taped a new one.  Realized I now had 2 backs. Printed and taped another front.
  
  
• My front panel fabric was heavily patched. I cut it out with the *fold* not on the fold - so I got 2 pieces instead of one.  Rendered it unusable. Had to make whole new patched front panel. 
  
  
• Sewed a set of panels wrong side to right side. Ripped and re-sewed.
  
  
• Ran out of fabric pieces big enough for a side panel so I patched one from 4 fabrics. (not really a mistake).

P.S. I have been sewing for more than 50 years and am a formally trained fashion designer.  Not sure I've ever made a garment without using my seam ripper.

What I Learned / Techniques Used

• It was time consuming to color block with reclaimed fabric, cutting, planning combos - although I really liked the end results. 
  
  
• It would have been a smarter choice to make this first version with a sheet and work out fitting adjustments. Advice I've given others (make a practice version) but sometimes forget to do myself.
  
  
• Topstitched all seams, used pinking shear to finish inside seams
  
  
• Watched many Youtube tutorials on how to apply bias tape.  Found it easiest to attach from the inside and wrap towards the front. Learned not to stretch while sewing, especially on outside curves. 
  
  
• Might like it better in a more drapey fabric.  The dress shirt remnants were a bit stiff which makes it stand away from the body more than I like.
  
  
• I might do a bit more contouring on the center panel to accommodate my large bust without making the garment as wide.
  
  
• Looking at the picture of the back I see drag lines towards my upper back.  This tells me I need a a rounded back adjustment.
  
  
• Probably would be a very quick sew on a serger

• I love the way this top turned out and I will definitely make it again.

Plans for Next Time

I want to try using some cream colored embossed silk fabric that has spent years in my stash. It has a very nice drape and the color would be versatile.

Love to Upcycle?

Paganoonoo makes upcycle sewing simple. Get a 25% discount on Paganoonoo Upcycle Sewing Tutorials with code MMSCpost   #etsyseller

Example - Noel Design, made from men’s dress shirts:

What are your favorite types of upcycles?  I'd love to hear in the comments below.

Happy upcyciing,

Michelle Paganini

Upcycle Symbol Released for Unrestricted Use 07Aug2025

Upcycle Symbol Release

Today I am officially releasing an upcycle symbol to the public. 

I originally created this unique symbol in 2015 to embody the principles of upcycled fashion, for my business, Paganoonoo. I've realized that this symbol is meant to be universal, representing the spirit of upcycling in all forms. 

Free for Everyone — Forever

It is now freely available individuals, organizations, educators and makers alike - no attribution required, no cost. It can be used for any purpose, just like the recycle symbol we all know and love.

What Is Upcycling?

Upcycle means to improve post-consumer/industrial waste into something of greater value through the application of creativity, innovation, and labor--reimagined into a new product. Unlike the traditional recycling symbol, this icon represents creative transformation, hence the upward pointing arrow.

Upcycling can take many forms:

• Old garments turned into stylish new fashion pieces (like at www.paganoonoo.com)
  
• Sculptures made from discarded tools and machine parts
  
• Furniture made from salvaged wood, discarded surfboards, truck tailgates, vintage sewing machine tables, toys, etc.
  
• Jewelry made from broken watches, cutlery, jewelry parts, etc.
  
• Quilts make from fabric salvaged from old clothing

(Keyword search: Upcycle on Pinterest for more examples)

That's upcycling. You'll see it in art, fashion, home decor and in your own imagination.  The possibilities are endless--limited only by creativity.

♻️ Upcycle vs. Recycle

In comparison, the traditional recycle symbol emphasizes breaking down and remanufacturing goods -- generally considered reused (with a downgrade in original value) that prevents the materials from going directly into the waste stream.  for example:

• Shredding clothing to make industrial mats or tires to make padding
  
• Breaking down and recasting plastics

Creative Commons License

This upcycle symbol has been placed into the public domain using the Creative Commons CCO license, ensuring that anyone can use or share it without asking permission.

Feel free to use this symbol however it serves your mission--on products, packaging, educational materials, signage, and more. Let's build a movement together!  

Spread the Word

One of the most powerful ways to ensure wide adoption would be a Wikipedia entry. For this to happen, the symbol needs to be referenced in independent, reliable publications — not personal blogs or social media. If you use the symbol in a publication or product, and can point to a qualifying reference, please get in touch!

🔗 Download the Symbol  

Upcycle Symbol Graphics Files & CCO license

 

Formats include:

• PNG (transparent background)

• PDF

• Editable Procreate file

Thank you for helping to elevate creative reuse,

Michelle Paganini

San Jose, CA, USA

Upcycle Fashion Designer, Owner of Paganoonoo

michelle@paganoonoo.com

Love to sew? See our tutorials on www.etsy.com/shop/paganoonoo

Get 20% off with code upcyclesymbol 

Purchase fabric upcycle sewing labels on https://www.spoonflower.com/profiles/paganoonoo

Why Buy Your Next Pair Of Jeans Secondhand?

10 great reasons to buy your next pair of jeans secondhand:

Want to take your secondhand finds even further? Are you a sewist?

Instead of just wearing your thrifted jeans as-is, why not transform them into something completely unique? Try an upcycle sewing tutorial...

Paganoonoo tutorials make it possible to upcycle denim into an art-to-wear jacket (Boro-Style Tutorial) or a simpler unlined kimono-style jacket (Carol Jacket Pattern). Create pieces you’ll treasure!

With clear, step-by-step illustrations and instructions—just bring your creativity (and those old jeans you were about to donate) are create something you'll wear over and over..

The Paganoonoo Carol jacket pattern, is an unlined, wide sleeved, kimono style jacket that can be made out of denim, dress shirts, vintage linens, and more.

Carol Jacket made by Michelle Paganini of Paganoonoo 

Carol Jacket made by Karen Sullivan of Sully’s Upcyles 

The Paganoonoo Boro-style jacket, creates a more art-to-wear unisex garment, The tutorial includes various design element choices so you can create a truly custom artwear piece. 

Happy 2nd hand shopping and making!  Thank you for making eco-conscious choices.

Get 20% off of any Paganoonoo upcycling instructions with code: BORO20 - Good through 20Sept25.

Michelle Paganini.

Paganoonoo Owner and Designer

#memademay #buysecondhand #upcycleddenim #2ndhandavoidstariffs #donateoldclothes #buyoldclothes

 Welcome to the Paganoonoo Upcycle Sewing blog...  
Paganoonoo upcycle sewing tutorials set you up for upcycle sewing success! 
This Paganoonoo design, the Noel dress/tunic, is modeled by quilter Maria Shell.  It was upcycled from dress shirts (base and striped panel) and a skirt (brown section).

The Noel design can be made either as a dress or top.  

Sizing is dictated by the garment selected for the torso.  Can be made from any dress shirts - children's to plus size - making it ideal for a wide range of sizing.  This means it is easy to get a perfect fit by starting with a garment that already fits your torso.

The possible color combinations are almost endless.

Paganoonoo's illustrated instructions walk you through selecting garments, sizing*, and deconstructing and reconstructing the starting garments. no pattern pices necessary. Sew up your own version! Purchase your instructions here 

What color will you make yours?

Happy Upcycling, Michelle

www.paganoonoo.com 

P.S. See 3 additional dress versions in these previous posts:

Silver New Years Eve version
Red Holiday Version
Light Grey and White Version