Upcycled Patti Blouse Planning Sheet - what colors will you use?

About Paganoonoo

Hi,  I'm Michelle Paganini, upcycle fashion sewing designer and owner of Paganoonoo.  Paganoonoo specilizes in upcycle sewing instructions for home sewists that support YOUR upcycling success.

Simple Upcycle

People new to upcycle sewing often ask which Paganoonoo design I recommend starting with and the answer is the Patti.  It is easy to sew, easy to fit, and is flattering on every figure type.  Bonus – it is a chameleon, easily changing to suit your tastes as you will see in the examples below.

Fit

Double bonus – it is easy to fit. You start with a button-down shirt that already fits your shoulders and chest the way you like. The one below was made for my friend Karen who is so diminutive I sourced the flannel from the boys section of a thrift store.

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If you have successfully sewn a garment from a pattern you can make a Patti by following our upcycle sewing instructions.

Getting Started

Building a Patti starts with selecting three dress shirts, one of which fits you well in the chest, arms and shoulders.  The other two shirts will be cut up (deconstructed) and portions will be added back onto the shirt that fits just right, creating an  entirely new silhouette. Alternatively, the back panel can be made with other garments, such as skirts, with flat fold cloth, vintage linens. etc.

One of the best parts of upcycling?  The sleeves have already been set, the placket is already done with buttonholes sewn, buttons attached, and the collar and collar point are complete before you even start!  This is truly simple sewing.

Purchase Tutorial Here code STARTPATTI 25% off

Color Schemes

By using various color schemes the Patti can work for any season.  The flannel and denim version above is perfect for fall and winter.

Choosing attractive and flattering color combinations can be tricky.

In this short video, I give practical and easily applied tips for successfully combining patterns and colors. Also revealed, the one color that looks great on everyone!  LOL, no it is not black. The answer will surprise you.

While you are at the Paganoonoo YouTube channel check out the other free upcycle sewing tips.

Planning Your Patti

Once you have the colors tips, use this planning sheet to test out various color combinations!

Get started now! Purchase your Patti pattern at the Etsy Store.

More Examples:

Paganoonoo Patti upcycled
blouse. Made from flannel
shirts and flat fold cloth lower back.

Paganoonoo Patti upcycled
blouse.  Made from flannel
shirts and flat fold cloth lower back.

 

Customer Marlene Randall in her version of the
Paganoonoo Patti blouse

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Another super flattering version. This sewist is from Alaska!

Another customer creation. I adore the collar treatment!

 

And below, a summer version from an anime shirt and net covered skirt.  My friend Cynthia is modeling it.

Paganoonoo Patti upcycled blouse.
Upcycle sewing made simple

Paganoonoo Patti upcycled blouse.
Upcycle sewing made simple.

The famous quilter Rachel D. Clark stopped by my booth wearing a Paganoonoo Patti she made!!! My first thought on seeing her was how elegant she looked, even though she was dressed casually. I like her choice of palette, making it all in a very similar color.  

She added an inverted pleat in the center of the lower back panel.  With the collar buttoned all the way up and a cluster of necklaces I think the overall effect really is quite elegant.

 

What will yours look like?  I have more Patti tops in my wardrobe than any of my other designs.  They are my go-to top with pants.

Get started on your new favorite top today with a 25% discount code: STARTPATTI

Bonus Content:

Find everything you need to know about upcycle sewing with Paganoonoo instructions:

https://paganoonoo.com/patterns/pattern-features-table/ 

https://paganoonoo.com/pattern-sizing/

https://paganoonoo.com/frequently-asked-questions/

7 Video Tips blog post: https://michellepaganini.blogspot.com/2018/07/7-free-upcycle-sewing-video-tips.html

Top 10 reasons for upcycle sewing http://michellepaganini.blogspot.com/2018/04/top-10-reasons-all-sewers-should.html

P.P.S.  Create simple upcycle sewing projects with free video tips!  I show you how to add a double color to a dress shirt, combine color and pattern with confidence, shorten sleeves to ¾ and add a decorative cuff, and more!  Register for free today!

https://paganoonoo-upcycle-sewing.teachable.com/p/sewing-tips-with-michelle-paganini

Happy Upcycling, Michelle

Summer Sewing, Upcycled Jean Skirt

Sometimes I just want to sew, not for Paganoonoo (my upcycle sewing company), just for myself.  A few days ago I did just that, and made a summer skirt.

My motivation for the project?  I have a pair of very stained vintage overalls that I'd cut off to shorts length.  SO comfortable.  Not the most attractive look, probably limited to gardening and working around the house.

  

I had a desire to make something shorts-like (and fit for public viewing) for the hot summer here in the SF Bay Area.   I'm not that fond of shorts or trying to fit pants, so I thought a skirt might be easier and more comfortable. 






Starting with a pair of jeans purchased from a customer, I set about making a 60's/70's style hippie skirt only at knee length.  The jeans arrived with wear and holes that were come by honestly by her husband working in the pants (l like that!).


I cut the inseam open, leaving a 1/3" wide strip of fabric on the side of the seam to use for sewing down the piece.  I cut up halfway up the front and back seams using the same methods. 
 
The rest was all overlaying, pinning, trying on, re-overlay, re-pin, try on, and repeat literally 15+ times. I was able to conform the skirt to my figure using this method.  I left the hem raw, being very careful not to cut it too short.  It took 5 tries cutting off a bit at a time to get the length I wanted.  To determine where to cut, I marked in while I had it on so I liked where it fell.  After seeing these photos I think I can go a bit shorter in the back. 

I may also do a "Boro" mending on the holes.

The one glitch left is that the bottom of the fly will not sit flush to the body and makes a bit of a 3-D crease. It may not be that visible to others, but I know it is there.

I thought about cutting underneath it and just overlap and topstitch. - a bit tricky though as that would put a smile right at my crotch. LOL.

For now I'm not doing anything.

I have worn the skirt out in public.  It is much more fitted than what I typically wear so is taking some getting used to.

I think they will be a good "shorts" substitute.

What summer sewing are you doing?

If you are intrigued by the notion of upcycle sewing (using existing clothing rather than flat fold cloth to make new styles) check out my business site: www.paganoonoo.com.

We sell instructions for upcycle sewing that walk you through each step of deconstruction and reconstruction resulting in a custom fit. We've worked out the kinks so you don't have to.

Here are a couple examples of summer friendly garments:

 The Paganoonoo Bekah Skirt, scales to all sizes, upcycled

Easy to size! This skirt can be scaled to any size as it is build from individual panels taken from dress shirts. The closure is made from a shirt placket from a dress shirt - so you do not need to sew on a button or make a button hole, they are already there! 

More info on sizing upcycled Paganoonoo garments here.

Paganoonoo Ellie T-shirt, Upcycle Sewing Instructions

Alter your unisex t-shirt into the most flattering t-shirt you will ever own.  instructions walk you though step-by-step.  Works for all sizes that have a t-shirt that fits the bust, shoulders, arms. Hips too tight? We solve that!

Upcycled t-shirt, added hip room w/inserted back
panel #Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

Upcycled t-shirt, added hip room w/inserted back
panel #Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

More info about using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions:

Find out which Paganoonoo styles are most flattering for your figure type.

Find out more about sizing upcycled garments with Paganoonoo.

Frequently Asked Questions about upcycle sewing with Paganoonoo

Happy upcycling!   

  

Michelle

Paganoonoo Upcycled Boro Style Unisex Jean Jackets - Customer examples by Trudy Smith and Evan

Paganoonoo's upcycle sewing instructions walk you through the process of transforming garments into new fashion. In this case combining a waffle robe and jeans into a timeless denim boro-style jacket.

Shown are 2 wonderful examples made by customers.

EXAMPLE #1, Trudy Smith

We were at the Sewing and Stitchery Expo in Puyallup when Trudy showed me photos of her version of the upcycled Paganoonoo Boro jean jacket. I was smitten and begged her to mail it to me for a photo shoot so you could see what a fantastic job she did. Thankfully she said, “Yes.”

Trudy used the Paganoonoo Boro-Style jean jacket sewing instructions as a starting point—combining jeans in a magical way and made an outstanding version. Truthfully, I like hers better than any of mine! She has elevated jeans into a wearable art piece.

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Trudy Smith using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

Her choices of where to place light, medium, and dark elements is balanced and interesting. The use of asymmetric lines in patchworking the various pieces is eye-catching and dynamic.

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Trudy Smith
using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Trudy Smith using
Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

Layering the jacket with varied Sashiko stitching gives Boro-like textured interest. Adding the traditional Japanese fabric circle to the front creates a focal point so the eye has a place to land before exploring texture, color, and angles.

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Trudy Smith
using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions.

The jacket elements are remarkably balanced from every angle. There is so much to see it is hard to take your eyes away!

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Trudy Smith
using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

The thickness of the sashiko thread is a perfect weight for the heavy denim. The spacing of stitches is sufficient to easily distinguish them from a distance. Note how the stitches are not a traditional running stitch with the space between stitches and thread in roughly equal parts. Instead, the space between stitches is about ½ the size of the stitch itself.

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Trudy Smith
using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

Again, adding a single circle of traditional Japanese fabric to the back creates a focal point so the eye has a place to land before exploring texture, color, and angles.

Trudy took to heart the design tips included in the Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions—tips on key design elements that will transform a jacket into the realm of art-to-wear:

Paganoonoo Upcycle Sewing Instructions

"Shape: Forget symmetrical a.k.a. completely matching on each side. Symmetrical can be found in almost every commercial garment. Asymmetry makes a garment far more interesting garment.  

Use angled lines vs. horizontal and vertical lines (same principle as above).  Commercial garments tend to have horizontal and vertical lines.  Angled lines are far more interesting.

The color palette is limited to indigo. Use multiple shades (values) of indigo denim; it’s essential to capturing “Boro” style.  Consider making a color plan for shades, pre-planning ratios or proportions.  Classic ratio divisions in design are 1/3 to 2/3, for example 1/3 light / 2/3 dark.

When possible incorporate multiple denim textures.  I prefer 100% cotton as it becomes soft and velvety with age. Use softer pieces, stiff denim will not hang nicely, may distort the jacket shape, and will be less comfortable to wear."

Trudy mastered all of these principles and more in her version. She not only did an outstanding job of arranging light/dark and interesting angles, she add Boro stitching to highlight elements of the jacket. The combination is most decidedly art-to-wear.

What did she change from the instructions? She opted to leave off a closure.

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EXAMPLE #2 - Evan

Here is another customer’s interpretation. Evan chose to use straighter angles and smaller pieces of patchwork. 

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Evan

using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

He created interest with terrific distribution of light, medium, and darks, raw edges, multiple pockets, and Boro stitching—all of which add texture.  

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Evan
using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Evan
using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

(I outlined the patches in white to make them stand out.)

Detail of Jean Jacket made by Evan
using Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions

Evan added his own personal touch with rather brilliant closures—2 front waistband sections with the traditional jean buttons and buttonholes!

Both Trudy and Evan made the design their own.

***

Ready to make your own version? 
Purchase instructions here.

Common Questions...

Sizing? Pick a waffle robe that fits you the way you would like the jacket to fit. If you would like a larger one than you can find, use the bottom part of the robe to enlarge the sides and then sleeves. There are no pattern pieces, you are building on the robe base.
So there aren't pattern pieces? No—there are deconstruction and reconstruction illustrations with instructions printed on 8.5" x 11" paper.

Is it a unisex pattern? Yes it is a classic unisex design

Sourcing a waffle robe: If you can't easily find a second hand robe (thrift stores, e-bay), try asking your local spa or hotel what they do with old ones. Chances are they are going into the trash.

Why a waffle robe? It is the right shape and sturdy enough for the weight of the jeans.

Do I have to make an "art to wear" version? - No, not at all. make it as simple or elaborate as you would like. Work on it over time. Do whatever you want.

Why no pockets on the outside of the jacket? I typically place pockets on the inside so they do not disturb the lines of the design. That said—put pockets anyplace you would like.

 

Happy upcycling, 

 

Michelle Paganini, Paganoonoo Designer, Maker, Educator, Founder

P.S. Links to other Paganoonoo info:

Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/mrspaganini/boards/

Website: www.paganoonoo.com

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2kdj05584DbxVqwowJAacQ

Facebook upcycle sewing group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Paganoonoo/

Paganoonoo Patti - Tunic length for summer in linen & cotton

There is something wonderful about the feel of linen; a bit crisp and soft all at the same time, especially when using a worn-in 2nd hand garment.  When I ran across this robin's egg blue button-down I knew it would be perfect for a summer version of the upcycled Patti blouse. 

I looked through my stash of thrifted garments (about 220, lol) and found a seersucker skirt, another quintessential summer fabric.  Lucky me, it was a perfect color match. Kind of ironic that one fabric wrinkles if you only look at it and the other simply will not wrinkle.

I added a full-length section of the skirt on the back - no hemming and the waistband formed the back band - simple sewing!  There was one issue, when I tried on the shirt it looked unbalanced with such a long back compared to the original shirt hem length in the front. (Did not take a photo at this step)

I thought adding a layer underneath the shirt's front hem, matched up to the length of the back would look nice and give a "tunic" vibe.

Lucky me, I had another skirt in almost polished cotton paisley with a perfect color palette. What are the odds?

I cut a strip from the bottom of the skirt so I could use the existing hem as the hem on the Patti.  I underpinned it to the front of the Patti until a had a match on both sides and top stitched it in place. Perfection, except...


There is a pink polo pony and rider emblem embroidered on the front of the shirt.  Picking it out would leave a hole so I looked for another way.

I opted to cover it with a Paganoonoo Judy Flower made from the bit of the linen shirt cut away from the back.  Subtle and classic.

It did need a bit of color so I added mother-of-pearl/ mixed buttons and bugle beads to the center and attached it with a large safety pin.

These fabric flowers are easy to make and work well for gifts.

And the finishing touch...

 

 I'd purchased some marvelous beetle fabric from Flowerscapes on Spoonflower and was tickled that one of the beetles  was perfect for an accent.  This particular beetle was from the edge of the fabric so was partially cut off.  I used it as-is and with placement that suggests it is crawling out from under the yoke. 

I paired the tunic with a pair of linen bloomers made from vintage linen table cloth and a Tina Givens pattern (slightly altered). My new favorite summer outfit!

It has been entered in the Pattern Review Thrifted Contest, if you are a member you can cast a vote until May 12, 2019! 

P.S. the shoes are Born oxfords painted "Sassyfeet" style with Jaquard's Lumiere paints.  Yes, they work perfectly on leather! No I do not get anything from them for posting this.

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Make your own! Purchase the Patti upcycle sewing instructions on Etsy.

Find out more about Paganoonoo upcycle sewing instructions and methods:

Pattern features and body shapes

Pattern sizing

Frequently Asked Questions

Join the Paganoonoo mailing list, never sold or shared, and:

• See new example garments, 
• Get links to upcycle video tips
• Get notifications about sales
• Hear about new patterns
• Get event info 
• and more!

More posts on Patti Shirts:

Patti Blouse in Grey

Tiny Patti shirts for children

My (formerly) Favorite Patti Shirt

New "Patti" Blouse with Anime character

Happy upcycling!  

Michelle