Hi, I'm Michelle Paganini, a committed upcycle sewist, owner and designer for Paganoonoo. Typically you will find me altering already made garments, like Paganoonoo designs.
I was recently inspired to try an Indie pattern. A fellow upcyclist, Karen Sullivan, of Sullys Upcycled, made a version of this top that I fell in love with. The pattern is from the Matchy Matchy Sewing Club and the name is the Collage Gather Top.
Karen Sullivan
I decided to give it a try. Here are my results.
Michelle Paganini
Modifications I Made
I made some modifications from the pattern to accommodate my plus size (14/16 retail) pear-shaped figure:
- Widened back & front panels below bust to be slightly more A line to accommodate my pear shape.
- Increased width of side panels by 50% to accommodate my pear shape.
- Added decorative outside bias tape on the neckline and hem - wanted more contrast (for balance)
- Used bias tape on sleeves instead of pattern cuff to create harmony and balance with neckline and hem.
- Lengthened by several inches to accommodate my full bust and belly.
- Lowered front neckline slightly for comfort
- I did not like the light colored mid-back panel on its own. I added a contrasting red square.
I am used to doing only deconstruction/reconstruction upcycle sewing (Paganoonoo), and not traditional patterns. I made many, many mistakes, lol.
- Applied folded bias tape with the fold on the seam, raw edges out. Had to rip and resew.
- Make neck bias tape strip too short by 2.5”. Had to patch.
- Lost a pattern piece. Printed and taped a new one. Realized I now had 2 backs. Printed and taped another front.
- My front panel fabric was heavily patched. I cut it out with the *fold* not on the fold - so I got 2 pieces instead of one. Rendered it unusable. Had to make whole new patched front panel.
- Sewed a set of panels wrong side to right side. Ripped and re-sewed.
- Ran out of fabric pieces big enough for a side panel so I patched one from 4 fabrics. (not really a mistake).
P.S. I have been sewing for more than 50 years and am a formally trained fashion designer. Not sure I've ever made a garment without using my seam ripper.
What I Learned - Techniques Used
- It was time consuming to color block with reclaimed fabric, cutting, planning combos - although I really liked the end results.
- It would have been a smarter choice to make this first version with a sheet and work out fitting adjustments. Advice I've given others (make a practice version) but sometimes forget to do myself.
- Topstitched all seams, used pinking shear to finish inside seams
- Watched many Youtube tutorials on how to apply bias tape. Found it easiest to attach from the inside and wrap towards the front. Learned not to stretch while sewing, especially on outside curves.
- Might like it better in a more drapey fabric. The dress shirt remnants were a bit stiff which makes it stand away from the body more than I like.
- I might do a bit more contouring on the center panel to accommodate my large bust without making the garment as wide.
- Looking at the picture of the back I see drag lines towards my upper back. This tells me I need a a rounded back adjustment.
- Probably would be a very quick sew on a serger
I love the way this top turned out and I will definitely make it again.
I want to try using some cream colored embossed silk fabric that has spent years in my stash. It has a very nice drape and the color would be versatile.
Love to Upcycle?
Paganoonoo makes upcycle sewing simple. Get a 25% discount on Paganoonoo Upcycle Sewing Tutorials with code MMSCpost #etsyseller
Example - Noel Design, made from men’s dress shirts:
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