Hi, I'm Michelle Paganini, a committed upcycle sewist, owner and designer for Paganoonoo. Typically you will find me altering already made garments, like Paganoonoo designs.
I was recently inspired to try an Indie pattern. A fellow upcyclist, Karen Sullivan, of Sullys Upcycled, made a version of this top that I fell in love with. The pattern is from the Matchy Matchy Sewing Club and the name is the Collage Gather Top.
Karen Sullivan
I decided to give it a try. Here are my results.
Modifications I Made
I made some modifications from the pattern to accommodate my plus size (14/16 retail) pear-shaped figure:
- Widened back & front panels below bust to be slightly more A line to accommodate my pear shape.
- Increased width of side panels by 50% to accommodate my pear shape.
- Added decorative outside bias tape on the neckline and hem - wanted more contrast (for balance)
- Used bias tape on sleeves instead of pattern cuff to create harmony and balance with neckline and hem.
- Lengthened by several inches to accommodate my full bust and belly.
- Lowered front neckline slightly for comfort.
- I did not like the light colored mid-back panel on its own. I added a contrasting red square.
I am used to doing only deconstruction/reconstruction upcycle sewing (Paganoonoo), and not traditional patterns. I made many, many mistakes, lol.
- Applied folded bias tape with the fold on the seam, raw edges out. Had to rip and resew.
- Make neck bias tape strip too short by 2.5”. Had to patch.
- Lost a pattern piece. Printed and taped a new one. realized I now had 2 backs. Printed and taped another front.
- My front panel fabric was heavily patched. I cut it out with the *fold* not on the fold - so I got 2 pieces instead of one. Rendered it unusable. Had to make whole new patched front panel.
- Sewed a set of panels wrong side to right side. Ripped and re-sewed.
- Ran out of fabric pieces big enough for a side panel so I patched one from 4 fabrics. (not really a mistake).
P.S. I have been sewing for more than 50 years and am a formally trained fashion designer. Not sure I've ever made a garment without using my seam ripper.
What I Learned
- It was time consuming to color block with reclaimed fabric, cutting, planning combos - although I really liked the end results.
- It would have been a smarter choice to make this first version with a sheet and worked out fitting adjustments. Advice I've given others (make a practice version) but sometimes forget to do myself.
- Topstitched all seams, used pinking shear to finish inside seams
- Might like it better in a more drapey fabric. The dress shirt remnants were a bit stiff which makes it stand away from the body more than I like.
- I might do a bit more contouring on the center panel to accommodate my large bust without making the garment as wide.
- Looking at the picture of the back I see drag lines towards my upper back. This tells me I need a a rounded back adjustment.
- Probably would be a very quick sew on a serger
I love the way this top turned out and I will defiantly make it again.
I want to try using some cream colored embossed silk fabric that has spent years in my stash. It has a very nice drape and the color would be versatile.
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Noel Design shown below:
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